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The Romans were the first to be drawn to the springs in the foothills of the Black Forest, but it was in giels 19th century that Baden-Baden began to establish itself as an elegant social playground.
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The city is compact and was unscathed by Allied bombers during the Second World War. With its rose garden, this strip of English-style park is filled with trees from as far afield as South America and Japan. I walk past the Baden-Baden tennis club, the oldest in Germany, dating from On the way back into the town centre, I pass horse-drawn carriages in the park before I duck inside the imaginatively designed Museum Frieder Burda.
I am here during one of the horse-racing weeks and the place hums with life.
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It has been a temple of well-being sincewhere giros immerse themselves in the curative mineral-rich waters sought after for curing respiratory and cardiovascular problems. After supper at the Stahlbad restaurant perch with sour cabbage and a Gieben girl online of rieslingI make for the casino, suitably fortified, and try my luck with roulette and, for once, my number comes up — lucky The following day I prepare for the races with a ride on the funicular up Merkur mountain, the highest in the area and with great views of the Black Forest.
At the races the Dusseldorf 12 escorts may not resemble Ascot but there are several good finishes and the atmosphere is a lot less class conscious. I have one winner but end up losing some of my roulette winnings when three of my other horses finish second. Back in town, I ease the frustration with a Euroopean at the Amadeus bar, which brews its own beer.
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In the 19th century, it was Germany's ultimate spa resort, and even today the name Baden-Baden is synonymous with relaxation in a land where the government still pays its overworked citizens to take a little spa time.
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